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How to make orange juice



Dutch still-life painters adored lemons. Seventeenth-century

artists such as Pieter Claesz and Willem Claesz. Heda painted

hundreds of them, luminous renderings using multiple layers

of vivid pigments and glazes. A whole lemon casts an ovoid

of sunlight upon a pewter plate. Gleaming slices of lemon

and cut lemon halves accompany fish, oysters and meat pies.

Giant curls of lemon peel accompany wine-filled goblets,

glasses and gilt cups.

Strikingly, the lemons in these paintings are always prom -

inent, never insignificant. Placed in the foreground, painted

with sensual delicacy and a kind of reverence, they cast a

golden light close to the viewer, as if to seduce the gaze.

Today the lemon might seem ordinary, but in seven-

teenth-century Europe it was anything but. Starting in the

late eleventh century, Crusaders had brought back citrus

and other desirable goods from the East and in much of

Europe lemons remained both costly and coveted for cen-

turies. At a Westminster Hall banquet given for Henry 

and Anne Boleyn in , among the luxuries gracing the

table was a single lemon, which had cost six silver pennies.

Even in , when a dozen ‘unwasht’ lemons could be pur-

chased in a London market for three shillings, they were far



exotic spices or lemons, he could still in a sense lay claim to
these objects by displaying a still-life painting of them in his
home. Tens of thousands of seventeenth-century still-lifes
fulfilled just such desires.
Those who could afford lemons found spirited pleasure
in the zest, a flavour so uplifting that in medieval times physi-
cians prescribed it as an antidote for melancholy (the word
‘zest’ retains this association with lively enjoyment). The Dutch
and Flemish often flavoured wine and spirits with lemon zest,
much like today’s citrus-flavoured vodkas and gins. Their still-
life paintings captured this trend too, placing lemons near
wine-filled goblets or glasses. Typically, the lemon is peeled
to midpoint in a continuous ribbon still attached to the fruit,
and often a twist of peel curls down the tablecloth, a coil of
golden light.
Lemons also featured in the seventeenth-century fash-
ion for edible decoration. ‘Jagged lemons’, round, notched
slices of unpeeled fruit, garnished a whole fish, lobster or
crab, a joint of mutton or a roast pigeon, quail or lark. Round
‘lemmon’ slices and lemon halves pricked with rosemary
branches accessorized a  ‘grand salad’, alternating with
quartered roasted eggs around the plate’s rim. A French cook-
book of  suggested lemon salad, an arrangement of
thinly sliced peeled lemons topped with sugar, orange and
pomegranate blossoms. Pickled lemon peel brightened winter
salads, such as ‘A Sallet of Lemmon, Caveer [caviar], Ancho -
vies, and other of that nature’, advised by William Rabisha in
The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected, published in London in
, ‘to corroborate the palate, and cause appetite’.
The idea of a sweet ‘after-course’, considered an antidote
to the banquet’s overindulgence, was as yet confined to the
wealthy. Expensive imported sugar, long associated with
lemon, was still out of reach for ordinary people, and thus


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